Sunday 9th October 2022. Morondava to Belo-sur-mer

I was awake early due to the heat so went for a wander around the grounds to see the sea.  There were lots of fishing boat going out on the high tide.  It was stunningly beautiful but felt like we had gone back in time with all the sailing boats. By the time Ian emerged the fishing boats had vanished but we were able to go for a lovely stroll along the beach 

We were back on the road by 9.30am as we had a number of jobs to do before travelling South to Belo-sur-mer.  Ian had also worked out that I had lost one of my brand new walking shoes so I wanted to make sure it wasn't lying in the road by the bank - it wasn't!  We topped up with Petrol and water and got some more cash out as we had been limited on how much we could take out last night.  

The route to Belo was notoriously tricky to follow as it was just sand tracks.  It soon became apparent how tricky it would be as within minutes of turning off the main road we were confused and had to ask if we were on the correct track.  We weren't but were assured that the track we were on would join the other one so we ventured forwards.  However after about 10 minutes the track became so narrow it was impassable in our truck so we had to retrace our steps.  The correct track was better but still really hard to follow in places and we were completely reliant on maps.me until we reached the first dry river crossing.   On the far side we got stopped to pay a village toll of 5000 Ariary but the road thankfully became much clearer after going through the village.  In fact the road was pretty straight and not too corrugated for most of the way to Belo passing through the occasional village and large baobab

However just as we were starting to feel that we were pretty much there the road situation took a major downturn.  We had been crossing inlet after inlet with tracks in all directions that would clearly be underwater as some points and as we got closer to Belo these bays became much more frequent and there were numerous saltpans.  As we came through the final village we reached a raised track that was blocked and there were tracks going off in every direction.  Maps.me was totally confusing and we ended up driving in circles for a while before Ian stopped to ask directions from a couple of lads.   They were keen to direct us but wanted money and to get in the car which we didn't mind paying but didn't want them to guide us.  Ian got increasingly frustrated with them and ended up driving off in totally the wrong direction and then got really cross when I told him.  We eventually found a track around the edge of the mudflats and headed off towards the hotel across thick sand which was really tricky.  

Once we reached Entremer Hotel we realised that the journey had been worth it as the hotel was amazing.  It is right on the sea and our bungalow was yards from the sea.  Hot water is created by putting water from the village well in wine bottles and letting the sun heat them up - we were told 3 bottles mixed with cold water would be ample for a shower.  We got to watch the sailing boats going right past and the sun setting from our terrace.  

Dinner was absolutely superb - seafood salad to start, followed by lobster, calamari and fish for main and pineapple crumble for dessert.  Laurence the owner does the cooking herself with her team of local staff.  We made the decision then and there that we were going to have a relaxing two days and not get back in the car.